To my mind, a surprisingly thoughtful essay on the downside of celebrity chef-dom from, ahem, celebrity chef Mario Batali:
“The problem now is a lot of people go to cooking school because they want to be on TV. They don’t want to cook. And they don’t understand that the real way to learn to cook is to cook for ten years. You could learn how to use a CVap or an immersion circulator, but you first you have to understand the roasting process, and how good meat cooked in a CVap can be, only if you manipulate it after you’re done bringing it to the right temperature, putting a crust on it, and making it fascinating and delicious.
There is more demand now than ever for talented committed cooks, and the commitment is the part that most cooks are lacking. They want to get on their way and move quickly. They want to get their stuff and be a head chef or open a new restaurant with David Chang or Mario Batali or whomever. It’s tough now when someone leaves, and only gives you short notice, because they went to work for the next guy up on the media world food chain. It isn’t like it used to be, where, if someone screwed David Chang, they couldn’t go work for Tom Colicchio in three weeks.”
I’m glad he talked about his old show. I used to really enjoy it.